Your Next Lesson: Godello From Spain


James Nieves/The New York Times

Wine is full of places and grapes that were virtually unknown 10 or 15 years ago. We’ve covered several of these, including assyrtiko from Santorini and the reds of Ribeira Sacra.

Now we come to godello, a Spanish grape that by the mid-20th century had almost disappeared. As has happened many times around the wine-producing world, a small group of growers and producers, dedicated to godello, revived the grape in Spain and demonstrated what could be achieved with conscientious farming and careful winemaking.

For the next month, we will drink godello from Spain, where it is largely grown in the northwestern regions of Valdeorras, Ribeira Sacra, Bierzo and Monterrei.

Some readers have occasionally expressed discontent with our focus on little-known wines. I would urge you to reconsider any objections. The goal of Wine School is to explore and to discover. This is not only part of the pleasure of wine, it is also a wise strategy for consumers in search of good values.

Highly esteemed wines from high-status areas are almost always going to cost more. The great values tend to be in wines that have not received widespread approval in mass publications. These are the sorts of surprises and discoveries that will delight open-minded consumers.

But the results are not guaranteed. Here’s a chance to see for yourself.

The three wines I recommend are:

Guímaro Ribeira Sacra Vino Blanco 2014 (José Pastor Selections/Vinos & Gourmet, Richmond, Calif.) $20

A. Coroa Valdeorras Godello 2015 (De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, N.C.) $20

Valdesil Valdeorras Godello Sobre Lías 2014 (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.) $21

reader perspectives

Eric Asimov, The New York Times
wine critic, is talking about
godello from Spain this
month. If you would like to join the
conversation, try one of the bottles
listed here and as you try them, ask yourself these questions.


As is frequently the case, these wines will not be found everywhere. Don’t hesitate to try other vintages of these bottles, or godellos from other producers, including Ronsel do Sil, Godelia, Avancia, Triay and Godeval.

What to eat?…

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