I am an extremely lucky old surf dude in so many ways. One of the most significant ways is that, against all odds, I have put myself in a position at this time in my life where I have the freedom to go surfing pretty much anytime I feel like it.
Yes, this does come with the high cost of not having a real solid financial base and sometimes I am not all that sure we will have food on the table next week or next month, but the lifestyle wins out over substance in my book, almost any day. The day that it doesn’t is the day where there really isn’t any food, but somehow so far it hasn’t come to that. We eat and I surf. All good.
Sometimes I get asked just what is the average surf session like for an old professional surf geezer? In fact, on a recent Sunday morning after I had my session I was sitting on the deck of a little restaurant in front of my local surf break when I was asked that very question: “How was your session, Corky?”
Now, normally the obvious answer would have been something like “good,” “bad” or “OK.” But for some reason I decided to elaborate and it went something like this:
“Well, when I first looked out the window this morning I saw the conditions were good but I didn’t see too many waves so I was not moving too quickly to get on it. But then I saw a really good set so I rushed over here to get some before the wind came up. When I was walking down the beach to paddle out I passed two guys coming out of the water with shortboards and I nodded and gave ’em a friendly, ‘Howsit?’ One of them just looked straight ahead and the other sort of glared at me and didn’t say anything. ‘Humph,’ I thought. Gonna be like that, huh? Probably SUP haters, and I am on an SUP. Oh well, comes with the territory. But the waves were looking good so I paddled out eagerly to snag some.
“When I got to the lineup I noticed there were quit a few people out. That is what happens when you wait until mid-morning and it’s a Sunday. So I figure it’s gonna be a little while before I can put myself into position and get a wave. Well, I could do it right off the bat but that would not be the polite thing to do and would not go over well with the crowd already out there who had been waiting for a wave. One of the costs of riding an SUP when everybody else is on normal boards is that you have to be overly frugal with the amount of waves you take.
“So I positioned myself at the end of the pack and sat down next to another…