Labels including Tom Ford, Brandon Maxwell, Tome, Chromat, Helmut Lang, Marc Jacobs, Tracy Reese and Christian Siriano contributed to a rise in the share of nonwhite models in the shows, which hit 36.9 percent this season. But there were prominent outliers, as well, including the Row, where just three of the 30 models were nonwhite, and Victoria Beckham, where the number was five.
Of the 90 plus-size appearances, 56 were at Addition Elle and Torrid (showing at fashion week for the first time); both are companies that sell clothing above a size 10. Not far behind were Christian Siriano and Chromat, which between them had 21 appearances from plus-size models including Marquita Pring and Jocelyn Corona.
Teddy Quinlivan, who revealed last week that she has lived as a woman since she was 16, walked in 11 runway shows, boosting the number of appearances from transgender and nonbinary models to 31, a new high. Chromat contributed the highest share to the total: Six of its models were transgender or nonbinary.
Last season, six models over the age of 50 walked in New York Fashion Week, and this time was just a slight improvement, with 10. Coco Mitchell, Susan Cianciolo, Sophia Lamar and others hit the runway for Eckhaus Latta, Helmut Lang and Chromat.
“Diversity is really a part of the conversation, not just in fashion, but also in television, movies and any kind of media,” Ms. Davidson said. “Designers can see that there’s a real benefit to inclusion.” And the inverse is true as well. No diversity on your runway? “People aren’t going to tolerate it,” she said.