A former Il Corvo cook teams up with the owners of Analog Coffee for a tiny, around-the-corner offshoot that’ll make you rethink any prejudice against fancy toast.
Analog makes some of Seattle’s very best coffee, using beans from “a rotating cast of exceptional local roasters,” organic dairy from Fresh Breeze, and exacting care. It’s run by local cafe veterans Danny Hanlon and Tim Hayden, and regulars include a lot of restaurant industry people, in varying states of bleariness. B-Side dwells in the same classic brick apartment building, just around the corner, where Resto and, before that, Thomas Street Bistro used to be. Jake Vorono, formerly of the great Il Corvo, runs the show.
It’s a tiny, funny little spot, with only four two-tops and a little counter seating facing a wall of white and pastel tile (square-shaped, for once, instead of the ubiquitous subway). The menu is tiny, too, just a half-dozen things along the lines of frittata, a rice bowl, nice stuff piled high on thick-sliced toast. The hours are weird: only Friday through Monday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. — more days might be added as staff is augmented, but Vorono’s not rushing it. And B-Side doesn’t play the records you’d expect, given the name; it’s vintage in another direction, namely cassette tapes (and someone really likes Fleetwood Mac).
Breakfast and lunch
421 E. Thomas St. (Capitol Hill), Seattle; Friday-Monday 7 a.m.-2 p.m.; facebook.com/bsidefoodsseattle
With autumn approaching, B-Side’s patio is a lovely, leafy place to be, with bright blue tin tables setting off the red brick. It’s got an awning, too, in case of rain.
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Some favorites so far: Whatever you might think about the popularity of toasts, B-Side’s trout-topped version is very much worth your consideration. It’s rich but light, with a creamy yogurt dressing between the earthy, roasty rye bread and the smoked trout with its hint of candy-sweetness; on top of that is a 4- to 5-inch-high tangle of crunchy shaved fennel bulb plus pickled shallot, for a faint vinegar high note. It’s a super-delicious study in balanced flavors, and it’s beautiful to behold, too. Downside: It’s messy, cutlery or no — but who cares?
B-Side’s egg sandwich is pretty much perfect,…