Nonetheless, for those who care, good rosés, made conscientiously, are out there. The best — the sort of rosés that can age and evolve like any other good wine — have risen in price. But for roughly $15 to $20, the sweet spot for good value in wine, you can find remarkable rosés from many corners of the wine-producing world.
These 20 rosés, all under $20 a bottle, are far from the insipid rosés that clothe a little fruit and sweetness in chic pink. My picks show the savory side of rosé. Indeed, some of these rosés taste almost salty — fresh, saline sprays of summer that are nonetheless as refreshing as they are delicious.
While it pays to be serious about finding good rosé, it is also important not to be too serious when drinking it. Serve it cold, but not icy — though if you do, it will warm up soon enough in the summer heat. Good glasses are pleasant though not essential; tumblers are fine, too.
Drink it with lunch. Drink it with dinner. Or drink it just for fun, inside or outdoors. Drink it on a rooftop or a deck, at the beach or by the pool. Or, if you are like me and cherish summers in Manhattan when so many people leave town, enjoy it while listening to the blissful silence of empty streets.
Here, in no particular order, are 20 rosés, each under $20.
IDLEWILD MENDOCINO COUNTY THE FLOWER, FLORA & FAUNA ROSÉ 2016 $19.96
Sam Bilbro’s family is behind the idiosyncratic Marietta winery in Northern California, so it is not surprising that his own project, Idlewild, would also have the idiosyncratic goal of making wines from northwestern Italian varieties in Mendocino. The Flower is a delightful rosé, made of dolcetto, nebbiolo and barbera. It smells like red fruits, flowers and citrus but is savory, almost salty, and delicious.
SCHLOSS GOBELSBURG NIEDERÖSTERREICH ROSÉ CISTERCIEN 2016 $15.99
On pulling the cork, this Austrian wine is fizzy with residual carbon dioxide, but the bubbles dissipate…